Some people are put off by driving in a foreign country, maybe on the other side of the road!, but Crete is better than most Mediterranean countries.  Here are some tips, gleaned from 10 years of living and driving here!

Using the National Road

Stretching right across the island from Sitia in the east, to Kissamos in the west is the Ethniki, the National road “VOAK” .  Its Greek road 90, European E75 – but neither of these appear on the island! Driving a hire car in Crete its inevitable that you use this road. It makes for easy access to all areas in the north, and from various parts there are a number of reasonable roads to the south.  Bear in mind tho that Crete is a big island which is 300km from end to end. Typically will take 5h to drive.

Cretan slow lane

The Cretans typically expect this hard shoulder to be used as the slow lane.   Where safe to do so, its good to move at least a bit over the nearside line onto the hard shoulder, so that the speedy merchants can overtake.  But be careful, the shoulder disappears when its expensive to maintain (eg on bridges), so be prepared to move back out into your lane. 

The National road now has quite some stretches of dual carriageway. But mostly it is nominally two lane with hard shoulders on each side.

Various stretches will have double solid white lines, or with a broken line on one side, indicating overtaking is permitted. Do understand that no one takes any notice of these!

Speed Cameras

Do watch out for the speed cameras (which after many years may now actually be working!).  The normal limit is 80ish (variously 90 or 100), but on some junctions there are speed limits of 60 (the signs are often a bit hard to spot, so keep your eyes peeled) – this is where the cameras usually are.  You normally get a radar sign warning beforehand (in Greek but with a symbol you will recognise)!

Mind the gap!

When you are on a single carriageway road with parked cars, do not assume that because the parked car is obstructing the other side of the road, that oncoming cars will give way to you.  Cretans generally adopt a “first come” approach, and if they get to the gap first, they will go thru it!  And Cretan buses and coaches always have priority, whatever the situation!

Signs

Most junctions on Cretan roads have signs showing directions.  Often this will be to the nearest large town rather than the next village, but if you have Google maps on your phone, or use the excellent green MAKAS 400 series road maps (check road maps/greece/islands/crete), you will be fine.  One thing to remember when driving a hire car in Crete is that tho the junction will have signage of each direction, it may not be visible from each.  So if necessary getting out and looking at each direction may help!

Driving in town

Driving in Chania is a bit more of an challenge, but one which, after you’ve braved it a few times and know your way around, you’ll enjoy.  The traffic can be pretty dense, and the two wheeled motorists are a nightmare, weaving in and out of traffic, leaving millimetres of space, often on the phone, never paying attention.  Check out our Chania blog for parking just outside the old town – convenient to walk into, but avoiding the worst of the traffic.

The Joys of Off Road – once you have your own car!

Many of the out of the way places are accessible by dirt track.  Usually provide a reasonable surface, tho they can go over solid rock and have stones carried over from water courses in the winter.  Hire cars are not usually insured for damage and accidents on these, so you shouldn’t really drive on them – be warned!  Its another reason to buy your own! But there are some great sights to see from them, and they give easy access to some special places!!

Hiring your car

When you come to Crete for holidays before you buy and when you first come to live you will want to hire a car. Here are some tips which we have gathered from 8 years of hiring cars for guests when we ran our business. We are not going to go into the merits of any of the myriads of hire car companies offering cars in Crete.  A few things to consider tho. 

Unusually some providers include fully comprehensive insurance ? CDW with no excess, no liability for glass and tyres, as well as second driver insurance.  Check this against the more normal CDW with excess and liability for glass and tyres (a real hazard for the sort of conditions we have here in Crete). 

Also be careful that the provider meets you at the airport, and doesn’t expect you to walk to his site (which with cases down an ill lit road looking for the car hire site at midnight won’t be much fun!).

Check on pick up

Once you get to the car do check your vehicle before driving away.  Particularly important is to check the windscreen wipers (they do get perished in the constant sunshine) and washer fluid.  Although you’re (hopefully!) not likely to encounter rain, you will need to clean your windscreen from dust and dirt.  Also have them show you the spare wheel, to make sure its (a) there, and (b) inflated.  Punctures are common in Crete, and you will bless this action if you have need of the spare!  The cars get pretty heavy use during the summer, so do check lights, and state of tyres.

Some suppliers have an empty/empty fuel policy. In which case make sure you have at least enough petrol to get to the nearest station (particularly if picking up at night).

Don’t let all this put you off!

Driving a hire car in Crete probably sounds a bit intimidating, but its better than it sounds.  Driving speeds are generally not fast, the traffic is not that dense, and over half of it will be tourists like you used to be! 

Don’t be in too much of a hurry, calm any macho tendencies you may have – leave that to the Cretan men – drive defensively and you’ll be fine!

More about living in Crete

There is much more in our blogs. These show things to do in Crete, whether it be walking a gorge, hiking in the foothills of the White Mountains, or taking a drive to see the sites.  Chania is a great town to visit, particularly to go to the street markets, and of course you’ll want to get the benefits of the Cretan diet – be it the yoghurt and cheese, or the olive oil.

The Chania harbour front, created in Venetian times, is special, quintessential Crete partly because the iconic lighthouse adorns the cover of many a guidebook!

The Venetian Lighthouse

Though originally Venetian it was rebuilt 1825-32 by Egyptian troops in the form of a minaret. They were in Crete defending the weakening Ottoman empire.  That’s the reason people often refer to it as “Egyptian”.  Most recently a complete renovation in 2005 has straightened its lean and smartened its appearance!

Great place for selfies too!

From there we can see the sweep of restaurants and bars, backed by the, now well restored, Venetian merchants’ houses. 

Chania harbour front

We love the gentle slap of the waves against the harbour walls. The sounds of the swifts swooping over the harbour and amongst the buildings. The enticing smells of fresh food from the restaurants.

We are often in town in order to get provisions, sorting issues and searching for things. 

After we’ve done our chores and shopping we like to stroll the Chania harbour front, so that we can check out some of the sites, chillout in one of the bars, and end up with a meal.  Here are some of our favorites.

Our Favourites

Al Canea is a wine bar on the edge of the first harbour. Its across from the lighthouse and next to the Maritime Museum.  A quiet relaxed place which is set a little bit back and up from the main harbour front. We like to watch folk stroll by, so it’s a great place for people watching.

Right at the other end of the second harbour is the Apostolis Taverna.  Its a place to come because here the fish is delicious, the views are out over the posh boats, and they serve Lyra beer, brewed in Kissamos and one of John’s favourites!

Things to see

The old mosque now houses temporary exhibitions and markets, so its worth popping in to see what’s on.    

In the second harbour, in a restored Arsenali, you can see a life sized and fully functional vessel modelled on the Minoan oared vessels.  Its fascinating to look into this ship, with its tiny cabin aft, the rows of benches for the oarsmen, all in the open, its primitive sail, and finally the elegant leaping dolphins on the bows.

The row of seven arsenali, have been heavily modified for use as warehouses. But they are still a vivid reminder of the Venetians naval prowess.  At the time their floors were at sea level so that the Venetian sailors could haul their galleys to be repaired and worked on..

Choosing a restaurant

Many of the restaurants on the waterfront are still very touristy.  They have toned down the greeters, now “we don’t press you, we don’t stress you”.  However, at one time they had become quite intrusive and bothersome to strolling tourists, trying to bully them into eating at their establishment.  A place we like is the Amphora, with friendly staff and interesting and well cooked food.

After that we go back to the square with the Venetian fountain where we often get Tshirts from Kostas, who can print anything you have electronically on caps, mugs, Tshirts, you name it!

And what place would really claim to be on the map without a (S)tarbucks!  We don’t like the coffee they brew but their range of single origin coffee beans is great.

After that you may be hot and tired, so just off this square is Lets Spoon, where you can finish off with delicious frozen yoghurt and a good range of flavours of creamy rich ice cream.

In the Evening

In the evening, as the sun is setting, Pallas is great for cocktails.  Partly because its first floor bar and restaurant have great window views of the harbour lighthouse.   

And although their restaurant is good, we prefer Salis, in a fine location on a corner in the second harbour.  Its partly because at this place you can get top class dishes with Cretan notes but also because there is a more friendly atmosphere.

Afshin is co owner, an Iranian/Swede chef/sommelier married to Alex, who owns the Manousakis Winery.  Therefore, as you would expect, the restaurant has a great (and huge) wine list!

After a long day in the City

Chania is a wonderful experience, but the intensity of the city with its busy bustle, its frenetic (particularly two wheeled) traffic, and its noise and pace need to be balanced against the quiet and peace of rural Crete.  So its great to be able to come back to a place in the country to relax and chill out.

More about living in Crete

There is much more in our blogs. These show things to do in Crete, whether it be walking a gorge, hiking in the foothills of the White Mountains, or taking a drive to see the sites.  Chania is a great town to visit, particularly to go to the street markets, and of course you’ll want to get the benefits of the Cretan diet – be it the yoghurt and cheese, or the olive oil.

What’s to see on the drive

This drive from the north coast goes to the Creta Carob factory, the old village of Argiroupoli, the ancient tombs of Lappa and the taverna serving fresh trout farmed from rock pools formed by the stream.  then to Lake Kournas, the largest lake in Crete, with the old village of Kournas overlooking it.

In more detail

This is the route  from our first house, Panokosmos, but it would be easy enough to pick up the route from the Ethniki. It takes the fast way on the national road to get to Rethymnon Prefecture.  Subsequently leaving at Pirgos you head thru Episkopi, quite a big village with an interesting church if you have time. 

At Agiroupoli there’s lots to see – a little below the village and a fair walk away are the Roman tombs cut in the rock at Lappa. 

It’s an atmospheric place, the tombs cut into the soft rock, overhanging with moss and shaded by a huge plane tree. 

A circuit of the village takes in the Roman Mosaic floor similarly there are some interesting Venetian doorways and housefronts. 

Visit the carob factory in order to learn about the many culinary uses of the carob, and sample and buy the products. The carob syrup which has an unusual sweet sour taste and can be used in dressings and sauces, as well as drizzled on ice cream! 

Afterwards down near the stream is a taverna, a bit touristy, but a wonderful setting under the trees, with fresh trout farmed from the pools in the stream right by your table!

To Kournas Lake

Back via Kournas village up on the hill and then down to Lake Kournas, the largest lake in Crete.  Again a bit touristy around the near side, you can hire a pedalo for example.  Although that is quite a good way to explore the quieter side.  Or walk around the built up area brings you to a path to the quiet far side.

Drive from Panokosmos: Route on Google Maps

https://goo.gl/maps/HU2RbG3EEmG2

Listing of the places with our comments

https://goo.gl/maps/fYRU7tjaEso

More about living in Crete

There is much more in our blogs. These show things to do in Crete, whether it be walking a gorge, hiking in the foothills of the White Mountains, or taking a drive to see the sites.  Chania is a great town to visit, particularly to go to the street markets, and of course you?ll want to get the benefits of the Cretan diet ? be it the yoghurt and cheese, or the olive oil.